Sunday 31 March 1839
Ann low and getting into her old low way we must be off lay talking to her and again mentioned her settling her property safely on me
Small snow when Ann got up at 6 to light the fire - and at 7 50/60 small snow driving about - but tho' cold, soft - the snow does not remain on the ground at all - Fahrenheit 38 inside and 35 outside at 9
The horses ordered (Sam went to order them after Ann and I got up) for 10 this morning to go to church - breakfast at 9 in 1/2 hour read a page or 2 of Lardner's Encylopædia Antiquities of Greece and Rome volume 1
Off to church at 10 took Oddy in the carriage with us, and the 2 men behind, all the rest staid at home - from before 9 small snowy, rainy, in part haily wild morning - 8 or 10 minutes longer on the road than usual got out and walk up the hill to the school - the horses would not go - restive - desired the postboy to get us another pair and he did change the horse he rode, and then the other came well enough back
Mr. Wilkinson at church but did no duty except giving the bread at the sacrament - about 30 communicants among the rest Ann and I, and Oddy and John (footman) - Mr. Horsfall read prayers and preached and did all the duty - pretty good sermon from 1 Thessalonians 18. 13 and from following verses
20 minutes at Cliff hill - Mrs. Ann Walker very well, and civil luncheon-offering, and stranger-making of us - home at 1 1/2
Sometime with Ann then had her in my room and we read over together lent by Mr. Harper brought by him the last time he was here 'Sketches of scenery in the Basque Provinces of Spain with a selection of national music, arranged for the Piano-forte and guitar: illustrated by notes and reminiscences connected with the war in Biscay and Castile. By Henry Wilkinson, member of the Royal College of Surgeons, and late staff-surgeon in the British Legion, London published by Ackermann and company 96 Strand. 1838' 'London C. Richards, printer, St Martin's Lane, Charing Cross' small folio text pages 48. music pages 32.
Wilkinson observed in his preface that ' the masterly works of Roberts and Vivian have furnished us with most ample illustrations of the scenery of the South of Spain' - 'Mr. Sidney Crocker has nearly completed and Wilkinson 'hopes is about to publish a work on the Costume of the northern provinces Lewis's able sketches have familiarized us with the costumes and physical peculiarities of the people of the South' ....... 'the distant mountains seen thro' the narrow opening 'of the bay' (of St. Sebastian) 'and stretching far away to the westward, are known under the 'name of Cape Machacico.
The bay is of singular beauty, and compactness; its entrance is 'narrow; and midway between the Castle hill and the base of 'Monte Frio', stands the island of Santa 'Clara. the ruined lighthouse was for a long time after the battle of the 5th of May' (1836 I suppose) 'held by Carlists. From its summit they could plainly perceive all the movements of our army, 'of the arrival and departure of vessels containing troops. After the general deemed it prudent to take possession 'of the lighthouse, it was strongly fortified under the direction of Colonel Coloquhoun of the Royal Artillery. 'It is now a most formidable position, having a gun at its summit, and an 18 pounder within the surrounding works.
The ruined convent of Antigua stands upon a rocky point of land that juts into the waters of the bay. Its situation upon the borders of an extensive marsh', must have caused agues and intermittent fevers. 43/48 .....'the castle is perched on the top of the rock, covered 'by strong lines of defence ..... while snugly seated at its base is the clean and picturesque town. '.... the rock is nearly surrounded with water. On the northern aspect, it is exposed to the 'foaming billows of the Atlantic; on its eastern approach, the rapid river Urumea washes 'the base of its fortifications; and, on the opposite side, the waters of the lovely little bay almost 'contribute to make it a peninsula.
The great point of interest in this view of San Sebastian, 'is that it represents the part of the fortifications breached by the British in 1813, under 'Sir Thomas Graham' ..... the river forms an excellent natural defence on this side the town, - the tide runs in with great rapidity, and makes any attempt to ford it extremely dangerous ..... the bridge across the Urumea 'destroyed by the Carlists some time previous to General Evans's brilliant and sanguinary victory of the 5th. of May. The immediate consequence of the victory was the relief of San Sebastian from a strict blockade, on the 28th. of the same month, the Legion crossed the river and advanced upon Passages 44/48
From Bilboa by Castro and Olympia to the Ebro and (5/48) 'the celebrated pass of Ona ... one of singular strength and beauty. The 'scarped rocks rise on both sides of the road to the height of a thousand feet covered in many places 'with a straggling vegetation almost to the summit A brook roars thro' the rocky defile'.... after some time came to 'the picturesque little town of Ona. It contains one of the most magnificent 'convents in Spain' ..... the whole army of 8,000 men housed in it - then to Brebiesca, and lastly to Vittoria - ...'the great battle of Vittoria, the most complete victory of modern times'
Walked Ann and I in front of the house 1/4 hour till 5 1/2 - then a little while at accounts Ann sitting by me - dinner at 6 1/2 - Ann read French - coffee - read tonight's paper then till 11 wrote all but the 1st. five lines of today
Wild, rainy, small - snowy day - Ann had note tonight from Messrs Parker and Adam offering her the purchase of Marion's Lee Lane - Fahrenheit 39 inside and 36 1/2 outside at 11 1/2 p.m.
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